El Salvador
Feel the difference.
El Salvador is a tiny country in Central America, neighbored by Guatemala to the North, Honduras to the East and Nicaragua to the South. It’s roughly the size of New Jersey. Albeit it a small country, it is packed with awe inspiring, dramatic scenery such as 7 active volcanoes, crater lakes, some of the best surf spots around, delicious food and lastly, some of the kindest and welcoming people I’ve yet to meet.
On my most recent trip to El Salvador, my first stop was at AST (Adventure Surf Tours) surf hotel in La Libertad. Arriving at the San Salvador airport, it’s a short 35 minute drive to get to the beach. AST surf hotel is a small, 20 person, surf hotel catering to surfers and adventurers alike. Not only do they offer private surf lessons but they offer day trips such as hiking to a variety of volcanoes, waterfalls, and trips to local colonial towns. The accommodations are modest and clean and every room gives you an ocean view. AST also has another property in El Salvador at Playa Las Flores in the sleepy beach town of El Cuco as well as in Nicaragua at Puerto Sandino, all which offer surf tours and a variety of other local day trips.
Everywhere you look in La Libertad, you’ll see surfers catching waves. Local surfers and international travelers come here for some of the best and most consistent waves in Central America. From November to March, the waves are perfect for beginning surfers and from March to October, more advanced surfers will appreciate the 5 to 12 foot waves. Surf competitions have been held at Punta Roca in La Libertad because of the consistent runs of the waves.
While I was sipping on a Pilsener beer at a local pit stop on the boardwalk and watching the surfers, our guide, Emilio, pointed out a young boy surfing at Punta Roca. He’s a local kid, only 12 years old and a self taught surfer that has won many surfing competitions. He, like many other local boys ripped through the waves, dodging the rocks that inspired the name, “Punta Roca” (Rock point).
There were three guests at the hotel who had come to El Salvador for the very first time. They came to surf, one of them being a complete novice but was ready to expand his skillset with learning to surf in El Salvador. They had no prior knowledge of what El Salvador was all about aside from having friends, family and the media warn them of the dangers that existed there, yet they came anyways, willing to “risk it” for the surf.
There was a 57 year old, a 50 year old and a 30 something traveling together. The 50 year old and the 30 something had surfed before but the 57 year old man had not. He works out regularly at his home in Virginia but had never tried his hand at surfing. On his first morning out, he came back to the hotel without his friends, looking somewhat defeated. “I just couldn’t get up, I think my age is showing.” he’d said to me. Having surfed before myself, I understood the frustration of not being able to get up, to wiping out every time I managed to stand up on the board. Surfing is an art and it is a complete mental game. If you are not present in the moment and are too caught up in thinking too much, you’ll fall. After his morning of feeling defeated, he decided he’d try it again later in the day. The look on his face as he returned back to the hotel spoke volumes. It was not one of defeat but that of sheer elation, joy and accomplishment. “I did it! I got up! I surfed and it was awesome!” From that day on and for the rest of their time in El Salvador, he surfed. He got up, he wiped out, he got up again and every single time, he was stronger for it. He credited his success to the AST surf guide, Emilio, who was patient, diligent and persistent in his success surfing. Emilio took them surfing daily and on their last day, he took him to his uncle’s property situated on a private beach, completely void of people but with amazing waves, where they surfed for hours.
El Salvador is growing and it’s rebuilding itself from the 12 year civil war it endured from 1980 to 1992. What makes El Salvador such a wonderful place to reinvent and challenge yourself is that the country itself is doing just that. The people of El Salvador understand setbacks but by no means do they let them limit their happiness. It is the people of this little country that make it so special. Their welcoming smiles, their support and encouraging words leave travelers feeling like they’ve found a home away from home where they can enjoy the simpler ways of life yet with a deep appreciation for the people that make El Salvador a very special place to be.
What makes El Salvador more appealing is that it is a very affordable place to travel. Direct flights from many U.S. airports bring travelers to San Salvador in less than 4 hours, depending on your departing city. There are a variety of hotel accommodations to choose from, some catering to the more luxury minded traveler and others to travelers just want a clean, comfortable place to rest their heads. El Salvador uses the US dollar so there are no hassles with currency exchange. You can surf, hike, explore all day and then fill your belly with homemade pupusas for .25 cents a piece and wash it down with an icy cold Pilsener beer for $1.50. Fresh caught fish on your plate turned into local delicacies will cost you roughly $8.00, accompanied by a light salad and some cheese stuffed homemade tortillas, you will not go hungry here nor will you go broke.
If you’re looking for something totally different in your travels, I encourage you to explore El Salvador. Try the surf. Eat the food. Climb the volcanoes. Meet the people. Write or re-write your story in El Salvador.
Carmen Schaffer
Viva la Vida Travel
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